Spargelzeit: German White Asparagus Pasta

In Germany, springtime is marked by “Spargelzeit” (asparagus time), a cultural phenomenon centered around white asparagus. This pale cousin of green asparagus appears on every restaurant menu between April and June, celebrated for its delicate, complex flavor. This pasta dish is inspired by a traditional German preparation that showcases white asparagus in a light cream sauce, allowing its subtle flavor to shine.

The Recipe

This dish celebrates the subtle flavor of white asparagus without overwhelming it. When you have an ingredient this seasonal and special, the key is not to mask it but to complement it.

Ingredients

• 1 pound white asparagus (green will work if white is unavailable, but the flavor profile will change)
• 8 oz pasta (traditionally spätzle, but linguine or fettuccine work well)
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 1 small shallot, finely minced
• 1/3 cup dry white wine
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• Zest of half a lemon
• 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan, plus more for serving
• 2 tablespoons fresh chives, finely chopped
• Salt and white pepper to taste

The Method

1. Prep the asparagus: Unlike green asparagus, white asparagus must be peeled. This isn’t optional—the outer layer is bitter and fibrous. Using a vegetable peeler, remove the skin from just below the tip all the way to the bottom. Cut off the woody ends (about 1-inch). Then cut the spears into 2-inch pieces, keeping the tips separate from the stems.

2. Cook the asparagus: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon salt and 1 teaspoon sugar (the sugar is traditional and helps balance any bitterness). Add the asparagus stems first, cook for 2 minutes, then add the tips. Cook until tender but still with slight resistance, about 5-7 minutes more depending on thickness. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside, reserving the cooking water.

3. Cook the pasta: In the same asparagus water, cook your pasta according to package directions until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water before draining.

4. Make the sauce: While the pasta cooks, melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot and sauté until translucent, about 2 minutes. Pour in the white wine and simmer until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add the cream and bring to a gentle simmer. Add the cooked asparagus pieces and heat through.

5. Combine: Add the drained pasta directly to the sauce. Toss gently to coat, adding a splash of the reserved pasta water if needed to loosen the sauce. Remove from heat and stir in the lemon juice, zest, Parmesan, and half the chives. Season with salt and white pepper.

6. Serve: Divide among warm plates and top with remaining chives and additional Parmesan.

Recipe Notes

White asparagus requires a gentler touch than its green counterpart. The traditional German preparation is often simply boiled and served with hollandaise sauce or melted butter, but this pasta version makes for a more substantial main course.

A tip for selecting white asparagus: fresh spears should be firm with tightly closed tips. When checking for freshness, you can gently squeeze a stalk—if it squeaks slightly, it’s fresh.

If white asparagus isn’t available, green asparagus can be substituted. The flavor will be stronger and more herbaceous, but the dish will still be delicious. In that case, reduce the cooking time slightly as green asparagus cooks faster than white.